Zooming In Closer - Macro Photography with Ross Hoddinott

Wildlife is one of the most popular subjects for digital macro photographers. However, nature is timid and unpredictable. Successful images will be the result of using the right equipment, patience, good technique and a little homework. Read on, for my essential tips on how to shoot nature close-ups…

Tiny bugs and beasties are the perfect close-up subjects. Their true beauty and design can only be revealed when magnified. Truly eye-catching results are possible even if you are on a tight budget and using a basic set-up. For example, close-up filters/dioptres - which attach to your lens via its filter thread - are inexpensive, but combined with a standard zoom lens, are quite capable of excellent results. They work like a magnifying glass, reducing the minimum focusing distance of the lens they are attached to. Opt for the +3 or +4 version. They will allow you to shoot frame filling shots of larger insects, like butterflies and dragonflies, and also wild flowers and fungi. Whilst they do degrade image quality very slightly, by selecting an aperture of f/8 or f/11 you can minimize this effect. They are ideally suited to giving beginners a taste of close-up photography.

Extension tubes are another good close-up accessory. Simply, they are hollow rings that fit between the camera and lens. They work by increasing the distance between the sensor and lens, allowing the camera to focus closer than normal. As a result, the lens' degree of magnification is increased. Being constructed without any optical components, they do not affect the image quality of the lens they're coupled with. Therefore, they offer superior image quality to close-up filters.

However, there is no substitute for using a dedicated macro lens. They are optimised for close focusing, being highly corrected to give their best results at close range. They can also be used for general photography and are popular among portrait photographers. At its minimum focusing distance, a dedicated macro lens will normally produce 1:1 - life-size - reproduction. They are available in a range of focal lengths. Short macro lenses, in the region of 50-70mm, are lightweight and compact, making them easy to use handheld if required. However, at their maximum magnification, they don't create a large working distance. Therefore, this focal length is not the best choice if you wish to photograph subjects which are easily disturbed, like insects and reptiles. Generally speaking, tele-macro lenses upwards of 100mm are a better choice. They provide a much bigger subject-to-camera distance and compress the appearance of perspective - making it easier to isolate your subject from its surroundings. However, they are longer and heavier, increasing the necessity to use a support to prevent shake. Also, being a specialized optic, they are more expensive than a conventional lens. If you intend shooting close-ups on a regularly basis, though, a macro lens is a wise investment.

Whilst it won't always be practical to employ a camera support for fear of disturbing your subject, when possible, a tripod is an essential aid for close-up photography. At high magnifications, the effect of camera shake is exaggerated and depth of field is more restricted, so ideally your camera needs to be in a fixed position. Tripods - like the Manfrotto 055XPROB - that have a centre column that can be positioned horizontally are best. A remote cable is also useful, as is a small reflector and a Wimberley Plamp.

By moving nearer to your subject, you will reveal detail, colour and texture that would otherwise go unnoticed. Close-up photography allows us to view subjects from a totally new viewpoint and capture visually striking photographs.

Spiders, beetles, butterflies, moths, grasshoppers, dragonflies, damselflies, snakes and lizards are just an example of the type of miniature subject's close-up snappers should photograph. Whilst every species will need a slightly different approach, the basic approach remains the same. Firstly, you need to locate subjects to photograph. You may not need to venture further than your back garden to do this, but often it will be necessary to visit a local nature reserve. Why not join a local wildlife organization, as many of their sites are home to a host of insects and wild flowers, and you will also be supporting their work and conservation too. If there is a specific species you wish to photograph, do a little research first, either by reading reference books or online. Armed with this knowledge, you will find it easier to know where and when to look for the creature, its preferred environment and also any traits. For example, some dragonflies and butterflies are territorial, so will return to the same resting place again and again. This is useful for a photographer to know, as you can then wait near to its favoured resting place in anticipation of it returning.

Whilst a little homework is useful, practise is the only way to become proficient at close-up photography. Early morning and late evening are the best times to take pictures, particularly of insects. The light is warm and gentle and if the creature is still asleep, it will prove easier to photograph. In contrast, during the heat of the day, insects are far more active and you will need to be more patient. For flying insects, like butterflies, it is best to watch and wait until one rests, then approach slowly on foot. Insects will quickly scurry off or fly away if disturbed, so you need to be able to approach your subject carefully and quietly. Try not to disturb surrounding vegetation and do not cast your shadow across the subject. Regardless of whether you are using a dedicated macro lens, extension tube or close-up dioptre, if the situation dictates that you have to shoot handheld, it is often best to opt for a medium aperture of f/8 to f/11. In normal sunlight, this will allow you a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate shake, whilst still providing a workable level of depth of field. Contrary to popular belief, a large depth of field isn't always best for natural history close-ups. A relatively large aperture, in the region of f/4 or f/5.6, is far better suited to isolating your subject from its surroundings, helping to throw distracting background vegetation pleasantly out of focus. Careful focusing and a steady hand are essential. If the shutter speed is unworkably slow, up-rate your ISO sensitivity accordingly.

Wildlife photography can prove very frustrating. Often your subject will fly or scurry away, just as you about to release the shutter. However, ultimately your patience will be rewarded with some great nature close-ups…